Celebrating the life of a great husband, father, surfer, community leader
Leash Free Day
So it's '96. I'm an Aussie in Dume, fresh off the boat. I paddle out to the Outer. There's this guy. Big, loud, must be the enforcer. "Leash free day, no leash if you wanna surf out here." He at once barks but then laughs. Loudly. Then sits amongst his people - the eclectic crew that makes up any Dume session. "Hey Dusty..." He's the man this guy Dusty. A guy paddles out with a leash. Dusty's eyes light up, looks as if he's peering over glasses as he spreads the word. "No leash if you wanna surf out here." The guy argues. Brave I think. "It's crowded, if you can't surf without a leash you shouldn't be out here." The guy still argues. Dusty's still giving him that look. Then one by one everyone turns and looks at this guy - a wall of stink eye. He turns and paddles in. Dusty calls a kid into a bomb. Wow. People take turns out here. I like this place. We all trade waves. There's a camaraderie, a bonding of the tribe, with Dusty as the chief. I get a set wave and, still trying to work this place out, I push to make it past the rock. My fins release, I fall back and watch my leash free board peel away, a tasty meal for the Dume rubble. The foam swallows me. Then as my head bobs up I see my board still dead on for the rocks teeth, when this big, big hand grabs the rail and hauls it above the water. The dome headed guy hangs on as another wave hits him, his board and mine. Saved by the hand of Dusty. I'll never forget the big toothy grin, the eyes widening as Dusty pushed my board back toward me.
Views: 38
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by matt rapf on -
Great story, Al. I think we should reinitiate the no leash rule at least once a week, And while we're at it, how about the no oar rule eevryday, except flat days. Whatcha think? I know Dusty would approve.
-
Permalink Reply by Dick(ie) Wheeler on -
This reminds me of a story. I get back to Little Dume so seldom that I'm virtually unknown. You know how it is. So Dusty paddles out with me to the Outer Reef. It was a pretty good swell and there was what I considered quite a crowd. As I sat down with Dusty at the edge of the pack, he loudly proclaims to all as he points, "Him, him and him...and maybe him. The rest of these guys don't exist." He was always a good man to have at your back.
-
Permalink Reply by Lynn Leonhard on -
Alan, I was out that day too. A good one and one of the classic memories for me with Dusty. That and all the days at PDS with Dusty yelling at Bruno to shut up from 100 yrds offshore. Good times.
-
Permalink Reply by Chris Carnel on
-
I was a Zuma Jr. Lifeguard for years. I grew up in Woodland Hills and of course a little insecure about my Valness when I am starting to surf Drainpipes as I progressed as a surfer. I am paddling for this perfect peak and much to my chagrin, this bald guy drops in on me and just burns me. I say damn (to Myself) and paddle back out pretty pissed. A little while goes by and another perfect little peak come right to me an low and behold guess who burns me again...that bald guy. This is about 1979. I say WTF and he just stares at me and says "gotta earn your stripes kid!" Years of this go by and i strt to say hi to him on dry land and maybe started to get a little hair on my chin before he gave me any kind of respect. He did this all in a fun kind of "I know you are not from around here but I'll put up with you " way. As I became a man and started to drive, I would see him all over the place, Oxnard and parts further North and we would surf together and he was like a father from the Bu for me. He was great. As pay back (unintentionally) my son Wyatt burned Skylar at PDS. Ouch. Sorry Skylar. And sorry about your Pop! Love, Chris Carnel
-
Permalink Reply by William Mudd on
-
We have truly lost a member of the "old guard" and a respected local and friend. I will miss seeing him around the point and the sparkle in his eye when he smiled.
I like the idea of "no leash days" and letting the first wave of a set going unridden in memory of Dusty..."Dusty's Wave"
Our thought and prayers are with Skylar and Dusty's family.
The Mudd Family
-
Permalink Reply by matt rapf on
-
At outers this morning , we announced to the lineup that the first set wave was Dusty's and no one was to drop in. The wave came in and those of who knew Dusty cheered him on. It was a great moment.
A little later some of the local kids started asking some unknown characters in the lineup if they who Dusty was. When the guy had no clue, he was heckled and jeered and .laughter then ensued.
You don't know who Dusty IS? Then go somewhere else. Learn your history fool
-
Permalink Reply by Michael Schwimer on
-
AMAZING!!! How about no leash week - the first of every month, and no oar days every day accept for February 1-5?
matt rapf said:At outers this morning , we announced to the lineup that the first set wave was Dusty's and no one was to drop in. The wave came in and those of who knew Dusty cheered him on. It was a great moment.
A little later some of the local kids started asking some unknown characters in the lineup if they who Dusty was. When the guy had no clue, he was heckled and jeered and .laughter then ensued.
You don't know who Dusty IS? Then go somewhere else. Learn your history fool
-
Permalink Reply by William Mudd on
-
Michael Schwimer said:AMAZING!!! How about no leash week - the first of every month, and no oar days every day accept for February 1-5?
matt rapf said:At outers this morning , we announced to the lineup that the first set wave was Dusty's and no one was to drop in. The wave came in and those of who knew Dusty cheered him on. It was a great moment.
A little later some of the local kids started asking some unknown characters in the lineup if they who Dusty was. When the guy had no clue, he was heckled and jeered and .laughter then ensued.
You don't know who Dusty IS? Then go somewhere else. Learn your history fool
-
Permalink Reply by Keegan Gibbs on -
Awesome story alan.
-
Permalink Reply by Alan White on -
One for Dusty mate. He was a classic. Great to hear from Lynn too. Maybe Dusty's "leash free days" could evolve into Surfer's Rules signs at the top of each path. Respect for the Ocean. Respect for each other. Don't drop in. Don't snake. Be aware that if you have a 10 - 12 foot board and an oar that you can get every set wave the guys on 5 10 fishes can't - but that doesn't mean you have to!
Keegan Gibbs said:Awesome story alan.
-
Permalink Reply by matt rapf on
-
Lets do it Al. We can dedicate the signs to the memory of Dusty. Maybe the last rule should read " If you don't know who Dusty IS, please surf the Rock."
-
Permalink Reply by William Mudd on
-
I'm good with not wearing a leash......maybe that should be the rule everyday at Outers a.k.a "Dusty's Peak"
I do think a sign or plaque would be fitting.....what do you guys think? Maybe it could incorporate some surf rules with it i.e- "Dusty's Surf Rules"
matt rapf said:Lets do it Al. We can dedicate the signs to the memory of Dusty. Maybe the last rule should read " If you don't know who Dusty IS, please surf the Rock."
© 2012 Created by Sky Dayton.
Powered by
