Celebrating the life of a great husband, father, surfer, community leader
Leash Free Day
So it's '96. I'm an Aussie in Dume, fresh off the boat. I paddle out to the Outer. There's this guy. Big, loud, must be the enforcer. "Leash free day, no leash if you wanna surf out here." He at once barks but then laughs. Loudly. Then sits amongst his people - the eclectic crew that makes up any Dume session. "Hey Dusty..." He's the man this guy Dusty. A guy paddles out with a leash. Dusty's eyes light up, looks as if he's peering over glasses as he spreads the word. "No leash if you wanna surf out here." The guy argues. Brave I think. "It's crowded, if you can't surf without a leash you shouldn't be out here." The guy still argues. Dusty's still giving him that look. Then one by one everyone turns and looks at this guy - a wall of stink eye. He turns and paddles in. Dusty calls a kid into a bomb. Wow. People take turns out here. I like this place. We all trade waves. There's a camaraderie, a bonding of the tribe, with Dusty as the chief. I get a set wave and, still trying to work this place out, I push to make it past the rock. My fins release, I fall back and watch my leash free board peel away, a tasty meal for the Dume rubble. The foam swallows me. Then as my head bobs up I see my board still dead on for the rocks teeth, when this big, big hand grabs the rail and hauls it above the water. The dome headed guy hangs on as another wave hits him, his board and mine. Saved by the hand of Dusty. I'll never forget the big toothy grin, the eyes widening as Dusty pushed my board back toward me.
Views: 38
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Alan White on -
I really like the idea of a Dusty's Rules signs - I think that would be really cool. How do we go about doing it?
aw
matt rapf said:Lets do it Al. We can dedicate the signs to the memory of Dusty. Maybe the last rule should read " If you don't know who Dusty IS, please surf the Rock."
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Permalink Reply by Janet Kinosian on -
I love this story though i don't really understand it! have no idea about surfing really but think it a beautiful tribute idea - someone should really follow through with this plaque. just perfect and i'd guess it would be his favorite tribute of all.
completely in-character for who Dusty was and his passion in life.
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Permalink Reply by christopher drager on -
Janet Kinosian said:I love this story though i don't really understand it! have no idea about surfing really but think it a beautiful tribute idea - someone should really follow through with this plaque. just perfect and i'd guess it would be his favorite tribute of all.
completely in-character for who Dusty was and his passion in life.
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Permalink Reply by christopher drager on
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Matt, I surfed Little Pipeline and the Rock a few times with Dusty. He may be lookin' in right now so maybe just to be safe your sign might read, ".....please surf beyond the pier".
matt rapf said:Lets do it Al. We can dedicate the signs to the memory of Dusty. Maybe the last rule should read " If you don't know who Dusty IS, please surf the Rock."
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Permalink Reply by Alan White on
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So let's do it Matt - DUSTY'S RULES - how's this for starters:
Respect the Ocean. Respect each other.
Don't drop in - the surfer inside has right of way.
Don't snake - don't manouvre quickly inside to gain right of way.
Don't be a wave hog - don't take every wave just because you can.
Any suggestions welcome. I got snaked the day after Dusty's paddle out - there were just three of us in the water. Ridiculous.
christopher drager said:Matt, I surfed Little Pipeline and the Rock a few times with Dusty. He may be lookin' in right now so maybe just to be safe your sign might read, ".....please surf beyond the pier".
matt rapf said:Lets do it Al. We can dedicate the signs to the memory of Dusty. Maybe the last rule should read " If you don't know who Dusty IS, please surf the Rock."
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Permalink Reply by Steve Rozsa on -
I'm not sure Dusty would like a sign or plaque. Lets face it, it was Dusty's presence that brought order. I think a bronze statue would be awesome, Dusty could still be the guardian and I think having a statue would impart those unspoken surfing ethics more effectively than a plaque. The question is, where could you place a bronze sculpture? People cold see a statue of him and remember what Dusty stood for. It isn't that Dusty was this perfect person, he wouldn't want to be remembered that way. But he seems to perfectly represent what so many of us felt in our years of surfing little Dume, and I am sure he would be honored to be a lifetime guardian of little Dume.
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Permalink Reply by Kai Sanson on -
Allan, great story. I'm down for no leash day. Outers was a lot different back then...everyone had to their respect, and their spot out in the lineup.
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Permalink Reply by Audrey Shubin on -
I think the plaque would be a great idea. It's important not to forget Dusty and to keep things the way he would have wanted them!!
Alan White said:So let's do it Matt - DUSTY'S RULES - how's this for starters:
Respect the Ocean. Respect each other.
Don't drop in - the surfer inside has right of way.
Don't snake - don't manouvre quickly inside to gain right of way.
Don't be a wave hog - don't take every wave just because you can.
Any suggestions welcome. I got snaked the day after Dusty's paddle out - there were just three of us in the water. Ridiculous.
christopher drager said:Matt, I surfed Little Pipeline and the Rock a few times with Dusty. He may be lookin' in right now so maybe just to be safe your sign might read, ".....please surf beyond the pier".
matt rapf said:Lets do it Al. We can dedicate the signs to the memory of Dusty. Maybe the last rule should read " If you don't know who Dusty IS, please surf the Rock."
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Permalink Reply by Nick Brokaw on -
I think a bronze statue of Dusty as 'guardian of little dume' would be awesome... i'd personally go and make sure its good and shiny
Steve Rozsa said:I'm not sure Dusty would like a sign or plaque. Lets face it, it was Dusty's presence that brought order. I think a bronze statue would be awesome, Dusty could still be the guardian and I think having a statue would impart those unspoken surfing ethics more effectively than a plaque. The question is, where could you place a bronze sculpture? People cold see a statue of him and remember what Dusty stood for. It isn't that Dusty was this perfect person, he wouldn't want to be remembered that way. But he seems to perfectly represent what so many of us felt in our years of surfing little Dume, and I am sure he would be honored to be a lifetime guardian of little Dume.
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Permalink Reply by George Parra on -
NO leash? I'm in. Matt how do we enforce it on the next swell? And that means everybody........
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Permalink Reply by denise on -
Dear Alan, Thanks for posting this story I love reading them still. I have a hard time facing the fact that it will be 2 years in August and it has been a tough road without him. His spirit still remains in the surf of Little Dume I feel his presence when I am down there. Being that it is memorial day I felt compelled to thank people for their kind words and taking the time to post on his website. Even though we have never met Dusty liked to help people out and never tell me about it so I love reading the posts. Denise
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